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^!mm??!mmmmmmm??!mmmm??tmm^

. . THE

GARriENT . Cutter

AUG XO 1895

. Book of Diagrams . .

GOLDSBERRY) & DORAN

Proprietors . . .

-~r*>S*^}

3SS OGDEN AVENUE

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

Agents Wanted.

TiiMitimtiiimmimmmmmm

COPYRIGHT, 1895. BY GOLDSBBRRY & DORAN,

LADIES' COSTUME.

/:' P-

%M

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft the
entire Waist, which consists of one-
half of Waist, Rolling Collar, Vest,
and Standing Collar, Sleeve and
Skirt Trimming.

This Waist has no seams under
the arm nor down the back. Take
up the darts in front, close on the
side with buttons and button
holes, take up the shoulder seams,
cut the Rolling Collar double, in-
terline with canvas, and face with
silk; sew to waist, trim with vel-
vet.

Get the diagrams for the
Sleeves on page 3. Draft by
the bust measure, lay the pleats
to form a triple box pleat, finish
the sleeve trimming all around
and place upon this box pleat,
tack it in place. Use the diagrams
for the Skirt on page 4. Draft
by the waist measure, interline
throughout with grasscloth, face
up the bottom with velvet, place
the skirt trimming on each side
as represented.

The Vest is made of linen. Use
this diagram for the lining, lay a
side pleat down the center of the
outside.

Finish with a standing collar.

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

14s4

lG3/4

A

7%

in-

10>/4 9»/4"

ONE HALF OF WAIST.

I
2%

1
2

2V4

I7 '20%

5%// *>srH'

COLLAR /.

6^ _^|

iV

25/8

%U19

\

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued

X

^ i? £ ^ ^

us «s ■» cs th ©i

_ _ _< —h sj ©j|

OS

11%

3^—

LADIES' SKIRT.

//

n

NO. 2 U

Center of Front Cut Double

m en

*»

*^

*° *-L

C9

to

BOY'S BLOUSE WAIST.

Use the scale corresponding with
the chest measure to draft the entire
waist, which consists of Front, Back,
Collar, Cuff and Sleeves. Face the
bottom of Blouse and insert elastic
braid.

Regulate the length by the tape meas-
ure.

£» OS »

6

LADIES' BICYCLE COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust
measure to draft the entire waist and sleeves,
which consists of Front, Back and Collar for
the waist; Front, Back, Revere and Collar
and three Sleeve portions for the jacket. This
sleeve is sometimes called the Ferris Wheel
Sleeve; it is suitable for waist or jacket. Sew
the top in the sleeve plain; gather the bottom
and sew to the curved lines on the sleeve,
above the elbow.

Draft the bloomers, lining and skirt, by the
waist measure. Gather the outside and sew
to the lining. These can be worn without the
kilt skirt, but it surely is more lady-like to
wear the kilt skirt. Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

01

tan-

M

00

-3

CO

M

o

K>|M

001 01

*[co

*|p

SIM

LADIES' BICYCLE COSTUME— Continued.

y2

iov2 7V2

32H

323/4
33V2

33 %

8

LADIES' BICYCLE COSTUME— Continued.
20V2

36 H

4V2

©

v,

B/s

39 34

-^

ONE HALF OF BLOOMERS

y*

J03(OT3U

^u _^HJ?gg?;&i— 53H

13H

19*4

30H

53^

5434

57

58H

59

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure
to draft the entire Waist, which consists of Front, Back'
Side-back and three Sleeve Portions and Collar. The
Cape is also drafted by bust measure, it consists of one-
half of Cape, Hood, Cape Facing, Hood Facing and
Collar. Line the inside of the Hood with contrasting
material. Sew the collar to the cape and button the hood
on at the neck. Use any skirt given.

Regulate the length of skirt by tape measure.

10

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

3lH^f^

6% 51/*

J2234

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

11

CJ>

V

£ -

L-?^

rf»

"<

■__«>

to

^

FACING TOR CAPE

CO

*-• «D <I CiCnOs CO *->t-i

12

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust
measure, which consists of Front, Back, Side-
back, Under-arm-gore, Collar and three Sleeve
Portions.

Gather the sleeve puff at the bottom and
sew to the dotted line on the lining. The lower
part of the sleeve may be made of velvet.

The Coat is given on pages 14 and 15.
Draft by bust measure: Front, Back, Side-
back, three Sleeve Portions and Collar.

Take up the darts as represented. Lay the
pleats in the upper sleeve according to the
notches. Make a box pleat on the top.

The Skirt is given on page 16. Draft by
waist measure. Trim to suit.

Regulate length by tape measure.

35 - Cn

s

\\

—

f

\-~~~

a
0 ■

1 to

ts

1

1

1

SK

Sll)E

■sJa.

14-

^4Qr

%:,

3/

7i ■

'Pa

-A.

'9

<s

eeS,

ea*n

4-

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

13

(D>S-»

Gather and Sew to Sleeje

z
p

CO

O

Shirr between notches

09 09 090909 lid N

oo ^ NNf- co oo

CO

en

^3

*|.M

CD CO

>*>■

6H 43/4

14

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

&& S
*

*- ©CO ~3 o>

»-» ©

its *s.

CO-J OJ CJl CO t9 N»

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

15

63/4H

16

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

MORNING WRAPPER.

17

Use the scale corresponding with
bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment, which consists of Front, Back,
Sailor Collar, Cuff and Sleeve.

The Back and Side-back are cut
together; cut down the center of the
dart before basting, full the lining at -ji/
the waist line, same as a basque,
gather the Sleeve at the top between
the notches.

Trim with ribbon as represented.
Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

18

MORNING WRAPPER— Continued.

SAILOR COllLAR
50.L 4 X

Cut Double

o

X

CO CO »0 vj»

CHILD'S UNDERWAIST.

8lAjh

2»/2
3

Use the scale corres-
ponding with the bust

sv measure to draft by. Cut _,. _, .
y/2 J &A 7*/*

the front double. Close
in the back with buttons
and button-holes.

123/4

13

BOYS' SUIT.

19

Draft coat and vest by chest meas-
ure and draft the pants by hip measure.
Regulate the length by tape measure.

20

CHILD'S COSTUME

Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire
waist and sleeves.

This gives the blouse effect. Lay
pleats in front according to the notches.

The io-J front and back are for the
under waist or lining.

Gather the sleeve puff and sew to -r
the sleeve lining on curved line.

Draft the skirt by the waist meas-
ure. Lay the pleats according to the
notches, and sew to the waist. Finish
with white braid.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

^- - i^tfPac-eSeom

e

#t

i j.

CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued.

21

it!

20

Cut Double

<B

^* *-

<s/

1
1

<I

a^

I

/

CD*-

A

-^,

0

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^

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e^

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0

r
r
•>

1
1

0

3 /

dim

|oo

li

p

7yfc i

1

1

1

Cut| double I '

1

1

!»

H

09

01 01

CO

to

r1 >-'

A|U

l»{U

Wf-

*

<

*

<

1%

103/4

17%
20 V*

H
CO

O
<

w

H
O

< 27-14

- 293A

<

363/i
39lA

00

6

< 46V*

- 48'/*

<]553/*

58%

22

BOYS1 SAILOR SUIT.

To draft Waist use scale corresponding with
the chest measure.

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Vest, Collar and
two Sleeve portions.

The Vest is set in the front connecting the
notches.

Face the bottom of Waist and insert a rubber
cord.

The pants are drafted by the scale correspond-
ing with the hip measure. The waist band is
allowed.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

t*

•£■%

Ml

— ££—

\\

*£Ll_ —

=ft

-&s> —

i z\

* 1 S>

Cut Double

t*

ta

09

CO I— _ St

21%

BOYS' SAILOR SUIT— Continued.

23

\ — ^

3%

5V — T

6

4%V— - %

io8/4

W

1

iy-

a26/«

8|((' •

24

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the waist and jacket.

The waist is given on page

24. It consists of front, back
and sleeve. Close it in the
back, trim with braid, gather
or pleat the sleeve.

The jacket is given on page

25. It consists of front, back,
side-back, under-arm-gore, col-
lar and facing, and collar lining,
and two sleeve portions. Join
the collar to the front according
to the stars, notches and rings.
Gather or pleat the sleeve be-
tween notches. Use any skirt
given.

Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

fcS

19

ts

I-*

f

c*

00

o»

ts

«s

•j

«»■

^

^

iS

^

^

*

NO. 5T
COLLAR

Cut Double

CO CO

to 1—

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME— Continued.

25

If ICO

I

Z 0)

? r

<

l*|B c '

4%
6%
7^

©

05

sz;

3

e
Q

CO 00

15 tO

x»|co

26

LADIES' DRAWERS.

Select the scale corre-
sponding with the waist
measure.

It is in two pieces: One-
half of the drawers and
one-half of the band.
These can be closed or
left open.

Gather the extra full-
ness at the top and sew to
the band.

Make all allowances for
tucks.

Regulate the length by
the tape line.

LADIES' DRAWERS.

Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of
one-half of the drawers and band.

Make allowance for tucks. Regulate by the tape measure.

3^

3|

Q
Z
<
EQ

1-

<

CM

Cut
Double

17i

03 ,

[w

l~f *~

— M

C9 \t-r

|*r

Sew to

Band ■ 1

o

■n

O l

D

Z I

73

m i

>

■

z

m

r

J3

■n

(J)

THE BOTTOMl

**

03

05

03

ba

co

to

C»

W

03

<j

O

t8|M

68|i-

•e>|>-

*|co

03

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

27

Use the scale corresponding with Bust
measure to draft the entire waist, which
consists of two Fronts, Back, Collar and
three Sleeve portions. Cut the back
double. Close the front with hooks and
eyes . Gather the upper sleeves between
the notches to fit the arm's eye.

Draft the Skirt by the Waist measure ;
it consists of two Fronts, Back and Side-
gore. Sew the narrow front and side-
gore together, then sew the upper front,
side-gore and back in one seam. This
gives the skirt a stylish appearance. The
front and side-gore may be of velvet, or
of the same material as the dress.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

Ci Ci Or

28

151/*

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

11 9

e8/4 48/4

CO

to

Cut Double

to

z

p

00

>
o

>

! V

>•

1 2 in. Seam

*

O ©» ~J

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

29

CD

Join Back.

•

z

"*

p

£ w

1}

° «

30 O

Oi

•£>

m n

I in. Seam

00 05 •

CO

If-

-J OJ

z
o

0)

■n

o

z

H

4

Turn back for Facing

Cut on this Line

CD

CD

-a—

r-«-
s

C5

CO

30

LADIES' COSTUME.

I-*
09

t-1 © o

GO

*£

Q^s. £\

1 i

Center of , Back Out Double

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire Waist and Sleeves,
which consists of Front, Back,
Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Col-
lar, Ruffle for the Sleeve, Cape
and two Sleeve portions. Fit the
Basque perfectly, whale-bone
every seam and down the front.
Finish the bottom with knife
pleating, also finish the top of the
Sleeve with pleating and a cap.
Trim the Cape with braid or vel-
vet bands. Use any Skirt given
in this issue. Trim to suit.

Draft Underwaist by bust meas-
ure.

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

31

31/2 23/4

Qiyt«&i±.

IWDER
WAIST BACK

%\

6%

10l/a

13%

V7h
18H

LADIES' UNDERWAIST.

32

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the waist and sleeves, which
consists of Front, Back, Side-
back, Under-arm-gore, two re-
vere portions, vest front and
three sleeve portions.

This is a short pointed bas-
que; draft the same as all other
garments. The revere or large
collar may be made separately;,
interline with canvas, finish the
edge with guimp or jet trim-
ming. The bottom of the bas-
que may be finished with a soft
roll of velvet or silk, finish the
back with a butterfly bow.

The sleeves may be pleated
in various ways, or gathered;
one of the prettiest ways is to
lay side pleats, meeting in the
center or at point of shoulder.

Another is to make a box
pleat on top with deep side
pleats on each side. Always
line the puff part with crinoline,
tarletan or fibre chamois, the
latter is the most durable, as
the coat sleeve will not crush it.

The skirt is drafted by the
waist measure; it consists of
Front, Back Breadth and Side-
gore. Line the back with hair-
cloth and make a double box
pleat down the center. The
effect is very prett}' and more
durable than the Godet pleats,
or it may be gathered or pleated
in deep knife pleats, meeting at
the center.

Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

LADIES' STREET COSTUMES.— Continued.

33

34

LADIES' STREET COSTUME. —Continued.

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

35

36

BOYS' SACK SHIRT.

Use the scale correspond-
ing with the Chest measure
to draft the entire garment,
which consists of Front,
Back, Sleeve, Cuff, Collar
and Shirt Front.

Make up same as any other
garment. Interline the shirt
front with white canvas to
retain stiffness.

Regulate the length" by
the tape measure.

^20x4

3l/s 1U

10x4ff

9°

30 H

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

37

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft the
waist and wrap. It consists of
five pieces: Front, back, under-
arm gore, collar and coat skirt.
The sleeves are given on page
38. It may be trimmed with fur
or five or six rows of braid at the
bottom of the skirt and also at
the waist. Close in front with
large hooks and eyes.

The waist is given on page 38.
Four pieces: Front, back, under-
arm-gore and side-back. This
gives the pointed effect front and
back. Use any sleeves.

The cape is given on page 39.
Is in six pieces, four pieces for
the yoke and collar combined,
one-half of the cape and ruffle.
Line the collar with canvas.
Put together as indicated, just
as it is in the book. Line the
ruffle with silk. Sew the cape,
ruffle and collar (or yoke) to-
gether. It may also be trimmed
with braid.

The skirt is given on page 40.
Draft by waist measure.

Regulate the length with tape
measure

z

1

0

T—i

0

1

0

1^1

1

r

a i^l

,L

r
>

— >

TJ

|CS|M

— 1

3J

p-

tf» #>

fP»

£>

05 OI

w

0

*|M

rf^jM

co

CO

[S3

tototo

to

(-■

l-i I-" t-<

<I

CO

CO

Cntf^os

0

00

Cn rf*. N

*|M

*>|M

*|M

CD
►t^l ■ — •

38

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.— Continued.

t

3]

'I '\ A

f

3f

1 / /
1 | 1

I

(JNDERJ-
8 ARM

" 1 K 1

g I GORE i <s

1 1 1 I

, 1 I &
m\«\ i|

1 i

j

/ Waist Line , 8

''

'/

No.LH \

1*

7f

-Jioi

26 ?

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

39

is te

m

M

Ml-* Hi

M

M o

<z>

es

<t» M 40

IC

^

£s.

^

^^

*?

^

-J Ci Vx crj

40

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

LADIES' SEAMLESS COSTUME.

41

2g- 14

Use the scale corresponding with the
Bust measure to draft the Waist, Collar
and Sleeve.

This is truly a novelty, there being but
one seam in the waist, one in the sleeve,
and one in the skirt.

Do not attempt to cut this waist for a
stout form, as it can't be done success-
fully. The velvet may be omitted on the
waist if desirable. The chiffon ruffle
around the neck and down the front
would be very becoming.

If the waist is too small when drafted
out, make it larger in front, not in the
back.

The Skirt is given on page 42; is
drafted by the Waist measure.

Cut on the straight of the goods in
front.

Regulate the length to suit.

141/a

11V2

23V4

42

LADIES' SEAMLESS COSTUME— Continued.

CO <# 10

IN -*

CO CT> G> iH

r-CO

03

05

CO

00

LADIES' DUSTING CAP.

Use scale 32 to draft this by. Can be made of any material.

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME.

43

Use scale corresponding with the Bust
measure to draft the entire waist, which
consists of Front, Back, Side-Back, two
Under-arm-gores, Collar and two Sleeve-
portions.

Do not attempt to cut this for a Bust less
than 35 inches. Draft the same as all
other garments. The under-arm-gores are
marked where they are to join. Gather the
sleeve between the notches.

The skirt is given on page 45. Draft by
the waist measure. There are three pieces :
Front, Back and Side-Gore. Trim with
folds of the goods, or any other flat trim-
ming, as fluffy trimmings are not becoming
to stout forms. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

eoto

-Cl-3ln

■z

O

0 Sz

m-J^n

W I .Space Seam T 3GT ~

Back

//

*.[u

OO

*>IC0

IP-

k|U

_3Q

P
i»l^

03

*Th

5|». AS

— t—

BSCn

44

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME. -Continued.

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

45

00

Cut Double

©

W
>
f

©

w
w
w

!>

L

h

v,

Inch Scam1

Join Side Gore

©
e

SO 00

46

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
Bust measure to draft the entire
Basque, which consists of Front, Back,
Side-back, Collar, Coat (or Basque)
Skirt and two Sleeve portions.

Fit the waist perfectly. Lap the
fronts from right to left. Button or
hook down the side. After lining the
skirt with silk to make it fall in grace-
ful waves sew to the waist. It may be
finished all around with stitching.

The upper sleeve is laid in box
pleats according to the notches. The
notches represent the pleats, and the
stars the under side of the pleat.

The skirt is given on page 48.
Draft by the Waist measure. Is in
two pieces — Gored Front and Bell
Back. Gather the center of the back
from the notch. Regulate the length
by the tape measure.

%/n Space Seam !

K0.4S SIDE BACK

[>$? s/i Sp. Seam ^

C6

LADIES' STEEET COSTUME— Continued.

47

11 9

48

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

LADIES' HOUSE DRESS.

49

Ascertain the bust measure and use the corresponding scale
to draft the Basque.

It consists of seven pieces, as follows: Front, Back, Side
Back, Under-arm Gore, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

This Basque is drafted out the same as any other, but the
effect is different. This gives a very narrow back and rounding
side back.

Cut the front darts open in the center of dart and baste on
the lines given. (See diagram.)

The front of the Basque may be trimmed with embroidery
or braiding to correspond with drapery if desired.

The skirt and drapery is drafted by the scale corresponding
with the waist measure; lay pleats according to the notches.

Regulate the length by tape measure.

COILAE.No.7 D

to

i*r

an

» w

09

^

50

LADIES' HOUSE DRESS— Continued.

te

! i 14 14

**

©9

>-» © ©

00

i^

cs

\^ CO

00

os so

.MM

<JO

left Side

BiglitSide_

A"

■^

5

M

c

a

H

to

fc-

►A'*

4

K,

H

rf-^

w

*\

H

s<

*r

ce<

i*\

5

*>■

^

LADIES' HOUSE DRESS— Continued.

51

CO

Centre of Back

g<

.>T

*e

es

Cn.

M

«<

H

*.

>■

H

IS

^

frl"*

C

lOf

06 >

*4

W

to

k

M<

o

*>l«

M

i!<

«

PlCC

P

*T-<]

■■0

^'

H

»

*1H

H

14 -

hI

£j

46^

46V*

16 V* 80

52

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the Bust
measure to draft the entire Jacket and Waist. The
Jacket consists of Front, Back, Side-Back, Under-
arm-Gore, Rolling Collar and three Sleeve por-
tions. This gives the full skirt effect. Gather
the upper sleeve all round with very large stitches.
Join the notch on top to the shoulder seam.

The waist consists of Front and Back Yoke,
and gathered portion for front and back. Close
on the shoulder and under the arm. Finish the
bottom with a soft belt fastened under the arm.
Use any sleeve given.

The Skirt is drafted by the Waist measure;
is in four pieces, Front, Back and two Side-gores;
one may be omitted if desirable.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

M O

00^

834

IS

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.— Continued

54

LADIES' STEEET COSTUME.— Continued.

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

55

co it1

M

H-

00

w

CO

o

*>y

*lco

*!>-'

*l«

»lu

Use the scale corresponding
with the Bust measure to draft
the entire Jacket and Waist. The
Jacket consists of Front, Back,
Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Roll-
ing Collar and two Sleeve por-
tions. This gives the full Skirt.
Make as long as desirable. May
be made of any suitable material;
face the Front and turn back.
The full Waist is given on page
56, it consists of Front and Back.
Gather the top to fit the neck. It
may be made over a lining.
Gather the bottom and finish with
a soft belt.

The Skirt is given on page 57
Waist measure.

1*

Draft by the
Is in two pieces, Front and Back.
Gather the center of Back from the notch.

A very pretty finish for the bottom of Skirts is
made by cutting bias velvet 1^ inches wide and
making a heavy cord by twisting candle-wick
loosely, covering it with the velvet. Sew it on the
bottom and face the under side of the Skirt.

Regulate the length of the Skirt by the tape
measure.

en

» QO

CO w

CO

co|o>

CO

CO(Cn

*

1

1
1
1
1

3^4 — -

CO

V

"0
0

r"

r
3>
3J

- +

It!

ILO

tip

1 ICO

0
ll

j CO
col1-

^|H

- — »■

1*

<

*

» 05

|MC0lM

CO

CO

56

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

(JND^R

ARiyi

GORE

Waist Line .

V

\

\
No. 4 P \

\

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

57

Cut Double

CO

z

O

■

11

>
o

t>

! 2 in. Seam

to"

2
p

Cut Double

§

^

"*.

58

LADIES' HOUSE GOWN.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire waist, which consists of
Front, Back, Side-Back, Collar
and two sleeve portions. This
gives the Princess effect. Cut
the front double. Close invisibly
on the left shoulder and under the
arm. Finish the bottom with
two ruffles of Moire silk. The
sleeves are made of the same.

The skirt is given on page 59.
Draft by the waist measure.
This is the Bell Front with a
straight back breadth. Trim the
bottom with a band of the Moire
silk. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

LADIES' HOUSE GOWN.— Continued.

59

If*

If* •

«*■

01

CO

CO

01

M

CO

05

£

03
O

Si

&s

i-

CO CO

Center of Back Cut Double

M
M

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

No. 15

l/2 ta._?ejini_

->

60

MIS8ES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
the Bust measure to draft the Jacket
and Surplice Waist. The Jacket
consists of Front, Back, Side-back,
two Sleeves and three Collar por-
tions. Lay two pleats in the back,
join the notches and stars in putting
the collar together, line with canvas.

The Waist is given on page 62 —
three pieces: Front, Back and Col-
lar. The back is to be worn under
the skirt. Gather the fronts at the
shoulder to fit the back, lap the
fronts and tie in the back.

The skirt is drafted by the Waist
measure. Trim to suit.

Regulate the length to suit.

2V4

6%

S A

A

^N

1%

$%/l—

2y8

/ /

/f © 0

a.
1

4%
7%

^tr — •

9

^ 3«^^

MISSES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

61

1— '

h*

O

to

62

MISSES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

oolci

o

""a o!

2*

22i(V^

MISSES' COSTUME.

63

Use the scale corresponding with
Bust measure to draft the entire
Waist, which consists of Upper and
Under Fronts, Upper and Under
Backs, Side-back and Under-arm-
gore,Bretelle, Sleeve Ruffle and two
Sleeve portions. Gather the upper
front and back and join in with the
under-arm-gore. Finish the bottom
with a ruffle about four or six inches
wide. The sleeve ruffle is cut
double — this one is the under one —
cut the upper one shorter.

The Skirt is given on page 64.
Draft by waist measure. Trim to
suit.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

c<

7s In

3 "-4

f— — ^^*jari

"V

s&<

-" 1

XtX I •—

***"*-•

i\

1

i

i

1

\^

— r

1

►

«*

M

H»

00

#>■

t*»

to

^

v?

£

^

JS^

^

64

MISSES' COSTUME— Continued.

"-^kt^^BSS

»■

i

No. A 6 ONE HALF OF FRONT

©* ■

to

o

Cut Double

to

©

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

No. A 6

cc

©
©.

Hi

r

05 CO

to to

Va In. Seam

5*4

UH

L«l a © 1 a

31/*

S

CHILD'S APRON.

65

Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure. Is in four pieces — front,
back, side piece and band.

Join back and side piece at the
shoulders; sew in the front, and face all
around. Any style of trimming may be
used. Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

BAND

NO. 4 D

iv;

66

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the Coat, Vest, Front and Under
Waist.

The coat consists of five
pieces: Front, Back, Collar and
two Sleeve portions. This is
drafted and the different parts
put together the same as all
other garments.

The under waist consists of
one piece. Sew up the back
seam, lap the fronts across each
other and close with buttons and
button holes.

The vest consists of one piece.
Close in front with buttons and
button holes.

The skirt is drafted by the
scale corresponding with the
waist measure. Lay the pleats
according to the notches, press
carefully and sew to the under
waist.

Regulate the length by the
use of the tape measure.

BOYS' STREET COSTUME.

4*4

Jl%

6V44

BOYS' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

67

la'/Af

13 ^

t*i- ! COLLA

j4 Space Seam

VEST FRONT
No. A 9

99

t» to

l-k

H>

uo

H ^

S3 fcH

!4

©

a
C

e+
<S

M

0

1^

E9
Ms

0
ft

o

S5

H*d

A A

A

A

A A

A

A

A A

A

A

A

A

A

►

era

^-

M-

tf*

99

CO

GO

tc

u>

rs

to

h*

l-i

O

•j

ts

00

A

I-*

«9

era

99

*

CS

t»

o

O

99

^w

tf

J£

•-S8
^

JR

99

68

LADIES' NIGHT GOWN.

- * <

/H

1

i COLLAE

C5K fi

w

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment. It is in four pieces — Front and Front Yoke, Back and Collar. This is
a Mother Hubbard front and plain back. Use any plain sleeve given in this
issue. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

»8% "

1 5^414 W

15*

15Vs

LADIES' YOKE.

69

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.
Is in two pieces: Front and Back.

10%

51/2 4

8I-/-J-

S ' Sew Shirring on This Line

70

INFANTS' MOTHER HUBBARD DRESS.

JlJU'I ^n drafting this garment use the scale corresponding with the bust measure.

i

Is in four pieces: Front and Back Yoke, one-half of Skirt and Sleeve.

This is drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Gather the Skirt and sew to the Yoke; the Front and Back of the Skirt are
cut alike.

Make all allowances for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

LADIES' COSTUME.

71

Use the scale correspond-
ing with the bust measure to
draft the entire waist, which
consists of front, back, side-
back, collar and two sleeve
portions.

This is a plain, straight,
round basque; it may be cut
pointed or rounding, just to
suit. The back seam may
be left open to the waist line
if desirable.

The skirt is drafted by
the waist measure. Lay
the pleats according to the
notches in the back — do not
press the pleats, however.
Trim the bottom with stitch-
ing or braid. Regulate the
length to suit.

72

LADIES' COSTUME.— Continued.

Z
o

Cut Double

05 (51

_ t- -

&&g 'H<"<»1"

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN

73

Use the scale corresponding with the
Bust measure to draft the entire garment,
which consists of Upper and Under Fronts
and Shirring for Front, Back, Side-back,
two Cuff portions, Sleeve Puff and two
Sleeve portions for the lining.

The Back gives the pointed train effect.
Place the waist line on the straight of the
goods. Shirr the portions given for that
purpose and join in the under-arm dart.
Fasten at the waist and just over the bust
with jeweled embroidery, also trim the
deep sleeve cuffs with the same. Finish
the inside of the cuff with fancy buttons.
■Gather the puff at the top and bottom and
fasten to the lining. Finish the bottom
with a band and let the cuffs come over it.
Fit the cuff very closely at the wrist.

This sleeve is suitable for almost any
garment except an outside wrap.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

i5f

74

LADIES' PKINCESS GOWN— Continued.

491

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN.— Continued.

75

Cut Double

76

CHILD'S DRAWERS.

Use scale corresponding with waist measure. Is in two pieces; one-half of Drawers and one-half of
Waist Band. No allowance is made for the tucks.

Ct

Oi

21

ji)/4

38/8_A

//

^ u2J*

5

llfc

1
It

ONE HALF OP CHILD'S DRAWERS % \

1 s\\

NOJo N

V\\

*

i

\\

|

^*„

1

^/gVg

4\ \

H,l/4

tv

22S/\^

" "^ i *6"~

15*

4 k

*V4

14

16^4

18 H

19 H

WAIST BAND
N0.5N

LADIES' SUN BONNET.

For a lady of medium size use scale 32. This is drafted as all other garments. The dotted lines
across the top are to represent stitching or cording. Interline the same with two or more thicknesses;
gather the back part and join to the front, connecting the notches, shirr the back part, insert a tape and
draw back to suit the wearer. Any style of trimming may be used. This can be cut longer or shorter
to suit.

20V4

2o5/8LL

2184

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN.

77

Use the scale corresponding with the bust
measure to draft the entire garment, which
consists of Right, Left and Under, Right
Front, Back, Side-Back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions. This is drafted the same as all other
garments. Lay the pleats in the back accord-
ing to the notches, forming two double box pleats. Gather the right front at the shoulder to fit under front. Lay two pleats on line
beginning at 19% on base-line, fasten on left side with a hook and loop. Lay two upward turning pleats on right side. Trim to suit.
The Skirt is given on page 79. Draft by the waist measure. Any other full skirt may be used. Make the over dress and skirt the
same length.

00

^ —* 00

*-gp_ace Seam | ~~\

T71l-k

4-J #» L» IS
t^ 1^ «•* ^

78

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN— Continued.

isj^y^7

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN— Continued.

79

80

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire
waist and sleeves, which consist of
Front, Back, Side-Back, Under-arm-
gore, Collar, Bretelle and three Sleeve
portions. This basque gives the point-
ed effect both back and front. Put
the parts together as usual. Whale-
bone every seam. Line the bretelle
with soft silk. Gather all around
and sew to waist, forming a point
both front and back. Gather the
balloon sleeve all around the top.

The Front of the skirt is given on
page 81. The two Side-gores and
Back are given on page 82. Draft
by the waist measure. Trim to suit.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

81

r/a Va

82

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

®» *••

>*»•

1*"

«■ o

•J

>.i

^

^

©5 H*

MISSES' COSTUME.

83

84

MISSES' COSTUME.

s%r^

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure
to draft the entire waist and sleeves, which consist of
two Fronts, two Backs, Collar and three Sleeve por-
tions. Cut the front double and close in the back.
Gather the upper portions at the shoulders and waist
line. The upper portions and skirt may be made
separate and worn with various waists. Gather the
puff for the sleeve, and sew on the dotted line, or
higher up if a deeper cuff is desired. The Skirt is
given on page 85. Draft by the waist measure.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

4"/4 3

18

NO. 9C J COLLAR

w

ll3/4ll 10

103/4l0

MISSES' COSTUME— Continued.

85

SLEEVE
LINING

n

5J

10

13|

1^

18

19'i

83

Shirr and sew to waist

ONE QUARTER OF SKIRT

N0.8L

33

42

86

CHILD'S COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire waist and sleeves.
The gimp is in six pieces,
Front, Back, gathered Yoke
and three Sleeve portions.
Gather the yoke all around
and sew to the waist at neck
and dotted line. Shirr at waist
line and insert elastic.

The Over Dress Waist con-
sists of Front and Back. Finish
the top with a deep ruffle.
Make it narrow at center of
Front and Back.

The skirt is given on page
87. Draft by the waist meas-
ure. Gather at top and sew to
waist. Trim to suit.

[ 9V88/4

J_ Shirr on These Lines

10 v*

3

1H

10 H

13^

13

S/4

14S/4

17V4

181/*

3Vs

,1/ X*y

8/
■'4

I

8S/4/^ L _

j Shirr on These Lines

1

2%

9V»

13
14

CHILD'S COSTUME.— Continued.

5 4

87

20 V.

A

'

ft
M

ft

o
ft

ft

H

ft

©

ft

O

}

20 Vg

r

47 fe

,4%^

13J/3

(.5*4

88

MISSES' EVENING GOWN.

CO CO

Use the scale corre
sponding with the bust »h
measure to draft the entire
garment, which consists
of Front and Back for the
under waist, and Front
and Back for the over-
dress. Gather the upper £h
portion at the top to fit
the neck. It may be
gathered at the waist also
if desired. Finish the neck
with a lace bertha, put
the same lace in the arm-
holes. Drape it up to the
shoulder, make it very-
full. A ribbon belt with

&i 7W

loops and long ends
finishes the waist. Trim
the Skirt with ribbon
bows and bands. Use
any light weight material.
Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

LADIES' COSTUME.

89

cs

a?

-^^l I-*

^^~-~

"■*>v;

S/4 Space Seam__.

, In*

/I OS

11

^

i—

h*

I-*

//

^

— -fA

■4—

G0>

GO

o

ST

i

©
as

P \ 9 \
#\ \

B 1 \

?

H

*\ \

3

a

^

1 ,

*»

tf»

/

2s*

\

f

to

*

>

■

1

to to

to

l-l H*

ce os

l-k

cs ©»

^

J?

»

s

oo

C5

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire Waist, which consists
of Front and Back, two Sleeve
portions, Puff and Ruffle for the
top of sleeve. This is a blouse
Waist, may be worn under the
skirt or over, just to suit.

The front is gathered at the
shoulder to fit the back, gather
the back at the neck. Gather or
pleat at the waist between the
notches, finish with a soft belt,
close invisibly. Gather the Puff
and sew to the dotted line on the
sleeve portions. Line the Ruffle
with silk and sew in with the
sleeve. The seamless Waist is
given for the lining.

The Skirt is given on page 91.
Draft by the Waist measure. Is
in three pieces, Front, Back and
Side-ffore. Gather the Back at
the top. Trim the bottom with
folds or any trimming desirable.

Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

90

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

13 aA

G% 5

7V4-6

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

91

ONE HALF
BACK BREADTH

92

BOYS' SUIT.

Use the scale corresponding
with the breast measure to
draft Waist and Jacket. The
Jacket is in five pieces, Front,
Back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions. The Waist is in two
pieces, Front and Back. Use
any sleeve given .

The skirt is drafted by the
waist measure. Lay the side
pleats according to the notches.
Regulate the length to suit.

fin *; *»

00^ 15^ tc\

SCO

7V2

17 1/2

11/4 173/4 63/4

fin fin

fin

*•

#>

n-

CO

CO

to

IS

00 cs

to

QD

M»

0

•v»

W

«©

fin

*"

iST

LADIES' LONG WRAP.

93

Use the scale correspond-
ing with the Bust measure
to draft the entire garment,
which consists of Front,
Back, Side-back, Collar and
two Sleeve portions. The
back may remain open from
the line below the waist
line, or lapped over. Press
but do not tack down. Lay
side pleats on the top of
the sleeve according to the
notches.

Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

s?£=«S\

508A
511/*
51V*

94

LADIES' LONG WEAR— Continued.

** 1-1

•J

Or

to

"^

\C0

l^»^

*»$

CD S& .$•

35%

•to

00

to

OS

to )->

© ©

to

QD-KIC5

MISSES' STREET COSTUME.

95

Use the scale corresponding with
the Bust measure to draft the entire
waist, which consists of Front and
Back of Yoke, and gathered portions
for Front and Back, Collar, Ruffle and
two Sleeve portions. Gather the lower
portion for the waist and sew to the
yoke. The ruffle may be lined with
silk and sewed in the same seam
Close down the front invisibly. Gather
the sleeves to fit the arm's eye.

The Skirt is given on page 97. Is
in three pieces, Front, Back and Side-
gore. Gather the top to fit the waist.
Trim to suit.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

96

MISSES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

2l

/^ ^ // BACK*
^ ^ YOKE

A

\ \
\ \

\ x

A \ No. 13 O

\ \
\ \

0)

3

3
O
fi

3
O

3 \. \

"~-^

MISSES' STREET COSTUME— Continued

97

a>

CO

©

Cut Double

O

;>

^

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

H

'

©

No. A 6

0

Ms

'

l

V

V2 In. Seam

v.

It-

to IS

98

MISSES' PRINCESS DRESS.

Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire
garment, which consists of Shirring
for Front and the lining, Front,
Back, Rolling Collar, Sleeve Ruffle
and two Sleeve portions. Draft
same as all other garments. Shirr
the front at the neck and on the
dotted lines marked; sew to the
lining. Turn down the side front
and fasten to the shirred front.
Close on the left side with hooks
and eyes. Lay pleats in the center
of back according to notches. Dine
the ruffle for the sleeve. Gather
the top and sew in with the sleeve.

Regulate the length of the entire
dress by the tape measure.

MISSES' PRINCESS DRESS— Continued.

99

12s/s

ft

141/2

°1/2SHn6

V*
VA

23/4

3V2

SHIRRING
FOR FRONT.

Shirr on this Line _
Shirr on this Line

11
12

14V4

©
S*5

e

s
o
Q

s
u

^nLi

37

J37V4

100

CHILD'S WRAP.

Use the scale correspond-
ing with the bust measure
to draft the entire garment,
which consists of Front,
Back, Collar, Cape, two
Sleeves and Skirt. Gather
or pleat the skirt and sew to
the waist ; trim the cape
with fur or braid.

Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

V/z

cs

19

no

•a

«a

0

&

Hen

©

64
H

0

QD

H

3

-

»

O

M

Kj

o
K
B

•

►

MISSES' WKAPPER.

101

Use the scale corres-
ponding with the Bust
measure to draft the en-
tire garment, which con-
sists of upper and under
Fronts, upper and under
Backs, Side-back and three
Sleeve port io n s. This
wrapper is suitable for a
Miss or a Lady. Cut the
upper portions out at the
neck. (See diagrams.)
Gather and sew to the un-
der front and back. If de-
sirable the Front may be
shirred at the Waist line,
same as the Back. Gather
the upper Sleeve and sew
to the lining.

Regulate the length of
the Skirt by the tape
measure.

52yt
523A

102

MISSES' .^WRAPPER— Continued.

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

103

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire garment, which con-
sists of two yoke portions, collar,
and two skirt portions. Lay box
pleats in back and front according
to the notches, and sew to the
yoke. Trim the pleats with
braiding.

Regulate the length of the
skirt by the tape measure.

No. 4 K X

o

10

29|
30

104

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME. —Continued.

6&r*=^-»-/*

J_l%__

a1/.

7X/s
7 V*

MISSES' COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure
to draft the entire waist and sleeves, which consists of two
fronts, two backs, and ruffle for over the shoulder. Make
of any suitable material. Finish with briar stitching or
any other decoration. Use any sleeves given.

Draft the skirt by the waist measure. Trim to suit.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

MISSES' COSTUME— Continued.

105

20

3

a

u
3
O

-
a

a

w

M ©

£3

3

on

20

10 y,

44

45%
47x/4
48

106

BOYS' SACK COAT.

to

to

to

*- H*

I-*

«.<

*•

h*

GO 00

C

^

^

^

BOYS' SUIT.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the Coat and Waist. The Coat
consists of Front, Back, Collar
and two Sleeve portions; this
is a double-breasted Sack Coat. ^

The Waist is given on page
107; is in five pieces: Front,
Back, Sleeves, Belt and Cuff.
Lay the pleats according to the
notches.

Draft the Kilt Skirt by the
waist measure. Lay the pleats
according to the notches.

Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

I-* t-^ SB QC

M to IO I-1

N-M ^4 0- >P
IP

*££*

BOYS' PLEATED WAIST AND KILT SKIRT.

107

10i_9|8|

6i 5i

9 8 7 5j i\ 3J

20

e

V8

1»4

12
13%

So

3/«

9j8j 7i

Cut Double

M

DO

fa

o

fa

<

w

fa
sz;
o

©

A-

■*

l1/*

<8

V4

io3/*

<17

20 V*

27V4
293/*

39%

*

20

46V*

483A

553A
58V*

62V4

108

LADIES' CAPES.

Use the scale cor-
responding with the
bust measure to draft
both garments. The
first one, No. H 14,
is a circular cape;
line the garment with
silk or any suitable
material. The sec-
ond one, No. H 16,
consists of four
pieces: Front, Back,
Sleeve and Collar.

Join the different
parts as they are
-marked, connecting
the stars and rings
lay the pleats in the
sleeve according to
the notches; press
carefully but do not
tack down. Make
of any suitable ma-
terial. Regulate the
length to suit.

^

CO

^M

CO

CD^,

— -0?

bS

S/

z
0

o!

^X

M

0!

CO/

I

r 1
r

/V\

//!

w

> !

-3 1

4/

CC

01

If

LADIES' COSTUME.

109

Use the scale corresponding with the Bust
measure to draft the entire basque, which con-
sists of Front, Back, Side-back, Under-arm-
gore and three Sleeve portions. This is sim-
ply a plain pointed waist, front and back. The
sleeve is pleated in a double box pleat and
sewed in the shoulder seam and arms-eye.
The effect is very pretty. It may be draped
if desired. The skirt is given on page in.
Draft by waist measure. The front is laid in
three box pleats, one down the center and one
on each side. Interline the front with crino-
line. Gather the back two or three times very
coarsely and sew to band.

Regulate length by tape measure.

110

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

*a *~ *0

s?

CO
to

JO

to

10

•^

o

n*

tf

H-otocoeooo-j c>wi£>cococo
j» >»sf nj" v« ^r" «£*■?? -?1 -i*

O0 OS^OO^CO^ CO* 00

so

5% 4Va

s1/*^ ':

19 Yk

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

Ill

Or

OS

Box Pleat

-*

G) Ox £1

?£x

«1t5^aA^2£^

CO

CO
CO

CD «3

toll-

112

LADIES' COSTUME.

j\ BACK COLLAR

i u

Y$ N0.8!R.

r~

Its

1

&
in

\£_r^

is

IB I

IB 1 fb.

CO

Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire
Waist, which consists of Seamless
Waist, Revere, Ruffle for bottom of
Waist, Back Collar and Standing
Collar, Ruffle for top of Sleeve, and
three Sleeve portions. Put the dif-
ferent parts together in the usual
way.

The Skirt is given on page 114.
Draft by the waist measure; it con-
sists of the Skirt and Pleated Panel.
Lay three side pleats in the panel:
cut the skirt open on one or both
sides and insert the panel.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

113

11 9

1L__ 2

IX

A

/ '

n|%

/ '

^^ i-r

//

" ^7

1 1

//

/ / SLEEYE ' /

i / /

jn

"*/ T~

II

1

l

/ 12

il

|/| N0.8A

iili

la

*/

k»

s»l

i

• 1

L%_ _

r
\\

\\

\\

m

\ \

\ \

\ \

\\

\\

\\

\\

\\

\\

A

\\

\\

3VVk

^

2V„

5V4

10 ^

16"

18

114

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

©1 #*

© SO

CO
QC

to

*—

*+

CO

00

e*

£

^

£

/rrcocoeoco co co

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

115

05 05
«I If"

Mil-

Use the scale corresponding with the bust
measure to draft the entire waist and sleeves,
which consist of Front, Back, Side-Back,
Vest, Rolling Collar and Underwaist.
This may be made up in a Jacket just for
the street, or a Bodice for the house and street. Sew the
vest in the under-arm dart and shoulder seam, close down
the front invisibly with hooks and eyes. If this is intended
for a street Jacket, make the waist from the diagram given
on page 116; there being only the under-arm-seams, cut
the back double. Be very careful where you lengthen the
waist lines. To lengthen the back, lower the two bottom
figures, 27 and 27^; and to lengthen the front, lengthen
on the top line, 12^, and the third cross line, 17, making
the same changes on these cross lines you have made on the
two bottom lines. The Skirt is also given on page 116.
Draft by the waist measure. Gather the front. Lay two
pleats in the back. Trim to suit.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

fc3

CD|M

t-S
if*

O

»|M

1-1 m

00 <3

If*

N I-"

tasa

*l^

116

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

^^»

#>■ • '

(£>■

" 03

• ' W /* -

09

Ol

' H

<»

a

o

<

WJJ

_^M

^M

BOYS' COSTUME.

117

Use the scale corresponding with the chest
measure to draft the entire waist, which con-
sists of two Fronts, two Backs, Belt, Cuff and
Sleeve.

This is a Russian Blouse. Gather the upper
back at the neck and waist line, also the left
front; fasten down the right side; make the
belt of the same material as the trimming.

The pants are drafted by the hip measure.
Make the leg as wide as desirable; hem the
bottoms and insert a rubber cord. Regulate
the length to suit.

NO 9 D

BELT

8/. Bpac«_Scoro_

^i — Va-IiifhScam_

to

CO

<s\

to

IS

W

c

o

o

B
C

UPPER BACK
N0.9D

Waist line

Va

7

14

rv*'

33%

34

118

BOYS' COSTUME— Continued.

i«8/4

18 V» r_1,c "

18fj

21^2 4;£-

6^4, 3^3

-U88/4

18/8J19"/8

cuifp

i_J ! ' >

U8/4

is v«

1%

3

BOYS' SUIT.

119

120

BO^S' SUIT— Continued.

CHILD'S APRONS.

Use scale corresponding with the
bust measure.

It is in two pieces: One-half of
Front and Tie. Ribbon can be used
for the ties, if preferred.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

OS

'■") »

A

to to

APRONTIE

N0.2C

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

121

Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment, which consists of Front, Back,
Side-back and Collar. This Front may
be made up plain or pleated. If made
plain, draft the pattern out just as it is
here. Lay the pleats on the paper,
pin them in place, which will give a
plain front; lay the pattern on the
cloth and cut it out. But if the pleated
garment is wanted, do not lay the pleats
in the pattern but in the cloth. The
diagrams for the Cape are given on
page 122. Draft by the bust measure;
it consists of one-half of Cape, Collar
and Sleeve Pad. Baste up the shoul-
der seam, gather in the extra fullness,
gather the sleeve pad and sew in the
top of the sleeve. Regulate the
length to suit.

•J. lOO

o'r

*f !!

tor

i

l» IS ta

t* © ©

100

4 L_

-J i._4.J

or> »j*j ©stow is >—

IlVa

8% Li-

JaSE

/ I7l4 5,i15l/88'42S4

9%

11 UL

No. I>1

27Va

,1%

122

LADIES' CAPE.

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT.

123

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT.

To draft the Coat, use the scale corre-
sponding with the chest measure taken
moderately tight over the Vest. The
Coat consists of Front and Skirt, Back,
Side-Back, Collar and two Sleeves por-
tions. Sew the Skirt to the front and
side-back.

The Vest is given on page 125. Use
scale corresponding with chest measure
taken moderately tight under the Vest,
which is in two pieces, Front and Back .

The Pants are given on page 125.
Draft by scale corresponding with hip
measure. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

The Overcoat is given on page 126.
Use the scale corresponding with the
chest measure taken over the Coat and
Vest. It consists of Front, Back, Collar
and two Sleeve portions.

2%

CO,

Id

0

z

61/2

100/2
103,14

27 3A

101/*

.11/2

124

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT— Continued.

117/1

to

NO..E13,

WAIST

BAWD

M

A_

tsS

12ljz

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT— Continued.

125

51/s 37/8

191/8
193/4

05
O

03

I-1

CD

If

OS

■S^a

o

■42.

-<w5p

_M

iS^

S1

CD

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.

OVERCOAT
BACK

iye

\\

evs

6V4

^

lVs

No. E 13

3 3,4

63/4

11

16i/a

23

303/4

23/4

OVERCOAT
SLEEVE.

No. E 13.

85/8

20i4
201/2

211/2.

,P OVERCOAT
2C°*T COLLAR

CO ls-

03

-3 r3

*L>' CO CO

£>

(5 (0

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

127

t5|M

Ulh-

Use the scale corresponding with the
Bust measure to draft the Waist and
Jacket. The Jacket is given on page
127. It is in two pieces: Front and Back.

The Waist is given on page 128, is in
six pieces: Two Upper Fronts, Under
Front, Back, Side-Back and Under- Arm-
Gore.

The Right Front is gathered at the
bottom between the notches, close on the
left side with buttons or hooks.

The cuff is given on page 127, the.
Sleeve, Collar and Skirt on page 129.

Draft the Skirt by the waist measure,
take up the darts (or gather across the
front), just to suit the wearer, lay the
pleats in the back according to the
notches, cut on the straight of the goods
in front. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

M

00

<I

CO

DO

O

t»|M

niei

10 |co

iWh

tOlM

cuIff

No. |D 1

l£.

o

o

en

128

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

129

7% «

26/8

130

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME.

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the
polonaise, which consists of seven pieces: Front, Back, Side-
Back, Collar, Pocket Lap and two Sleeve portions.

This is drafted the same as all others, but should not be used
for a form smaller than a 36 bust. Lay the pleats in the back
according to the notches. The under-arm seams may remain
open from the first line below the waist line down to the bottom.
Make the polonaise as long as the dress skirt.

Any style of trimming may be used to relieve the plainness
in front; for instance, do not button it all the way up to the neck,
but turn it back at the neck and face with velvet to form lapels;
fit the lining to the neck, however, and fill in lace or soft silk.

The diagrams for the skirt are given on page 132; it consists
of three pieces: Front, Side-Gore and one-half of Back breadth.
Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Any style
of trimming may be used. Regulate the length by the tape

Up. AS

— 1—

4%

measure.

V/t

Front

<

H

K

M
o

o

p*

GO
<

©
•fc

17%

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

131

60 19

1*

COM CS

K* HI

tt ttOD>]

*t

eetsts

NJ

>*»■ so

-S? -«

■-5 -C

£->-

f

y2 In. Seam

No. AS

Cut Double

132

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

00

Cut Double

pi •

©.
!2!

»
>

©
w

w
w

►

H

PS

©
©

lis

L

v.

a IncItSeam'

Join Side Gore

->

I* «J

■SO 00

GENTLEMEN'S DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT.

133

Draft by the scale corresponding
with the Breast measure, taken over
the vest. It consists of five pieces,
Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions. Draft the same as all
other garments.

Regulate the length to suit.

X0.10JR. COLLAR

| I

4^

or*

to

2784

134

STOUT LADIES' PRINCESS DRESS.

42%

43%

Use the scale corresponding with
the Bust measure to draft the entire
garment, which consists of Front,
Back, Side-back, two Under-arm-
gores, Collar and two sleeve portions.
Draft the same as all other garments.
Lay the pleats in the back, join the
under-arm gores according to the
stars. The ruffle over the shoulders
may be carried to a sharp point in
the back same as the front, or it may
be straight across the back, or may
be sewed in with the sleeve. Close
in front with hooks and eyes. Any
style of trimming may be used.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

DO

(-"

I-"

CO

tf»J>-<

It 1-

STOUT LADIES' PRINCESS— Continued.

135

iT

if\

Join Side-Muck

S|? UNDER ARM
•j£ GORE ..

OS OS

00

os

o

os

tf

136

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding
with the bust measure to draft
the entire Waist and Sleeves,
which consists of two Fronts,
Back, Side-Back, Ruffle for
the neck, Cuff and Sleeves.
Gather the upper front be-
tween the notches and baste to
the under front; close in the
back; the cape or ruffle may
remain open in the front and
back also; line with thin silk or
simply hem the edges and trim
with braid. The skirt is drafted
by the waist measure; cut the
front double to avoid a seam
down the center of the front.
Trim with braid or velvet.
Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

lt>|» »|m M|w

05

en co to m

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME— Continued.

137

7% G

138

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the entire waist,
which consists of two Fronts and Full
Front piece, Back, three Cape portions
and three Sleeve portions. The upper
front is turned back on the dotted line for
a revere, gather the full front portion and
fasten to the under front; cut the capes
as represented, allowing uthem to come to
the dotted line on the upper front; line
with thin silk or simply hem, and trim to
suit. Do not use any stiff lining, they are
to hang in graceful waves. Gather the
puff for the sleeve and sew to the sleeve.
Use any skirt given. Trim to suit.

FULL
FRONT

No. 10FX5

17*

17|

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

139.

2i

8|

ONE-HALF OF

75
<8

CAPE

No. 1 P

af

Bi

7i

8*

9i
9|

140

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
the Bust measure to draft the entire
garment, which consists of two Fronts
and Back, for the waist; Front, Back,
Collar and two Ruffles, for the Jacket;
and two pieces for the Skirt.

The Waist is given on page 140.
The one with a hem marked down the
front is the under, or lining portion.
The one that is marked " cut double "
is the upper portion. Close on the
shoulder and under the arm, gather
the extra fullness at the bottom of the
waist. The Jacket is given on page 141.
Make it as long as the waist. Trim to
suit. The Skirt portions are given on
page 142. Draft by Bust measure.
Take up the darts. The corsage may
be shaped to suit the wearer. Use any
full sleeve given, and shirr in the mid-
dle. Regulate the length to suit.

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

141

UNDER hi
RUFFLE

No. 7 P

2!

4

6

7k

9i

12|

15^

18

24

142

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

*» *»

OS

CO

M O

-1

#>■

t»ii- .&|m

~|w

*i^

to tow

LADIES' RIDING HABIT.

143

Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the Waist and
Sleeves, which consist of Front, Back,
Side-Back, Under-arm-gore, and two
Sleeve portions. This is made the same
as all other garments. Finish with ma-
chine stitching. Close in front with buttons
and buttonholes.

The Skirt is given on pages 144 and
145. Draft by the waist measure. Take
up the darts as represented, join the seams
according to stars and notches.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

144

LADIES' KIDING HABIT— Continued.

C3 05

Ol

CJ>

05

*>

*>

If- 03

CD

<3l

M

-q

O

&

if-

to

CO

oo

*

-J Ol cow to

LADIES' RIDING HABIT— Continued.

145

146

YOUNG MISSES' DRESS.

CO kQ to

Use the scale corre-
sponding with the bust
measure to draft the en-
tire waist and sleeves,
which consists of two
fronts, back, trimming
for the bottom of" the
waist, two sleeve por-
tions and puff for the
sleeve. Lay the pleats
on the upper front ac-
cording to the notches,
and sew to the under
front. The skirt
simply a straight piece

of goods laid in double box pleats. Regulate
the length by the tape measure.

YOUNG MISSES' DRESS— Continued.

147

•nto

INFANTS' DRESS.

10 Va

8JJ7JZ,

1

1 I

I !

FRONT

«

/ /

Xo.E3

—

/ >a

1 1 «

5

/ S

O

/ / »

Q

/ 'a

•p

1 /H

3

Use scale corresponding with bust measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of Shirring
for Front and Yoke, pleated Back and Sleeve. Lay six pleats in the back, turning toward center of back,
three on each side. Press and stitch once or twice at waist. Gather the front and sew to the yoke;
gather the Sleeve at the top and bottom. Regulate the length by the tape measure.

148

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
bust measure to draft the entire
Waist and Sleeves, which consist of
Front. Back, Rolling Collar and
three Sleeve portions.

This is a Serpentine Waist. The
fronts lap across each other and tie
in the back. Bring the skirt up
over the back piece; gather the
shoulder to fit the back.

The Skirt is drafted by the waist
measure. Is in three pieces: Front,
Back and Side-Gore. Gather the
top all around, but bring most of the
fullness in the center of the back,
taking very large stitches in the
back. Trim with braid or velvet.
Regulate the length to suit.

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

149

22|A

COIoi

o

31

o *■?

CO

B9]H

o

K>|M

*|H *"

150

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

(£■ OS

00 <| en

|_1 »|u

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

151

Draft the Waist, Jacket and Sleeves
by the scale corresponding with the
Bust measure. The waist is in two
pieces, Front and Back. Gather at the
neck and waist. Any other waist may
be used.

If the Jacket is made of heavy cloth,
take loose measure. It consists of
Front, Back, Side-back, Under-arm-
gore, two Sleeve portions and Collar.
This gives the new flaring effect in the
skirt. This may be made of any suit-
able material.

The Skirt is given on page 153.
Draft by Waist measure; if pleats are
desired, make allowance in the center
of back. Trim to suit. Regulate the
length by the tape measure.

05 W

rf>|»COlM

.-- "'.;

152

LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued.

25f

• Bi

J

ARiyi

afc\

r

8
9i

19

sif^je.

LADIES' STKEET COSTUME— Continued

153

CO to
l^ to

© 5 GO Cn ^ CO

154

LADIES' KITCHEN APRON.

Use scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Shoulder Strap,
Belt, Pocket and Strap.

The binding should be held tight, to prevent
enlarging the neck.

^ in. seams allowed.

Regulate the length by the tape line.

50 ^e

LADIES' COSTUME.

155

24|

Draft the Waist and
Sleeves by the scale corre-
sponding with the Bust
measure.

This is a Russian Blouse.
Gather the neck to fit the
collar. The waist is also
gathered. Close the front
on the left side. Hem the
bottom.

Use any skirt. Regulate
the length to suit. Any
style of trimming may be
used.

156

LADIES' COSTUME— Continued.

9°

LADIES' MOURNING COSTUME.

157

LADIES'
MOUMNING COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire
waist, which consists of two Fronts,
Back, Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Col-
lar and four Sleeve portions. This
is drafted the same as all other gar-
ments. Face the rolling collar with
crape. Use any skirt given. Face
up the bottom with crape. These
dresses are always made very long,
front and back, touching the floor all

around. Regulate the length with. the
tape measure.

158

LADIES' MOURNING DRESS— Continued.

_ 1/2 In. Seam 1

Collarj No. N llj

a

'flo

CO

05

<2 ^'|""l/2lnol1 |Beam.

i i ^*

X »3

^*"""""""'''''

| 'X^

0)

\\

V"" •' 1

r

1 L

!\ m !

n
n

, 1 1

j \ ; 00 !

<

t J

n

1 [■*/

; \ ~-~~~S. — ' Im 1 — *^~~-k

! j/110

y .fe-

J-S2. 1

ic£- | >.

I OS

to

09

CD

01 (^

LADIES' HOUSE DRESS.

159

Draft the waist and sleeves by
the scale corresponding with the
bust measure. It consists of yoke
and shirring for front and back,
collar and two sleeve portions.

15 ^

13%

//

"^-— »

A

\W

,7,

-\

_r*"

l/n

\ SHERING FOR BACK

\ \

NO. 3 G

\|\

XV

\4

\\S\

<

\ \

\ \

*—

Sew to belt

8/3

Wy*

10

l'

/4

9

10% 10

•v-

SHERING FOR FRONT
N0.3G

13T/4

-

B

o
«

H

Jb-

Sew to belt

l/«

9*/4

12% 9'/2

Gather the shirring portions at the top and sew to the yoke. Gather the bottom between the notches
and sew to the belt. This may be made to open in the back for a miss, or in front for a lady. If it is
made to open in front take the hem off the back and cut the goods double, and allow the hem in front
ij£ space hem. Gather the sleeves at the top between the notches.

Draft the Bell skirt with the waist measure; lay the pleats according to the notches; trim the bottom to
suit. Regulate the length by the tape measure.

160

LADIES' HOUSE DRESS— Continued.

*■

ri^ '

$>

" 03

" ' 09 ■ f '

05

CO

w

. J H

SO

05

o

-<

_w

^M

i^

to

»~

W

51/2

4

iQyezi—

J^

^___-A

//

\ \j)/4

61/4+-."-

BOYS' COSTUME.

161

10374

-iev*

Use the scale corresponding
with the chest measure to draft
the Waist and Sleeves, which
consists of Front, Back, Collar,
Cuff, Belt and Sleeve. Lay the
pleats on the waist according
to the notches; stitch them on
the machine. Draft the skirt
by the waist measure; lay the
pleats according to the notches;
press but do not tack down.
Regulate the length to suit.

193/4;

f

19 3/4

I
Center Of Front .

1

1/2
Box Pleat. <

r
KILT

SKIRT. x/*

1/4

Box Pleat "

V*

Fox Pleat. " "

No. E 12.

Box Pleat

Box'Pleat

Box Pleat

2

63/i

lll/2

161^

21

241/4

29

-3.4
37^4

42

4.68/4

!50'i/4

S5

593/4

631/4

68

73

76 1/4

8II/4
86

891/4

94

95iA.

971/4.

6Va 5

U3/i

101/2^%-- ■

113/8

111/2 Li_*

6=/8 S5443/4. 2^2 1/44

162

GENTLEMEN'S DRESSING GOWN.

Use scale correspond-
ing with the chest meas-
ure. Is in eight pieces:
Front, Back, Collar, two
Pocket Laps and two
Sleeve portions. Is draft-
ed upon the general plan.
Regulate the length by
the use of the tape meas-
ure.

»\M^

CHILD'S COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT.

163

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.

Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Sleeve.

Is drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Follow the arrows closely.

No allowance is made for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

81/ <S? ^'11_

8\ yS

1884

164

CHILD'S COMBINATION— Continued.

uyAu~- —

GENTLEMEN'S NIGHT SHIRT.

165

Use the scale corresponding with the chest measure.

Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar, Pocket and one-
half of Sleeve.

We deem it unnecessary to give a description of the
different parts, as any seamstress will know how to put them
together. The seams are all marked.

The front is cut open down to the notch at 15 on base
line.

The Sleeve and Cuff are cut together. Gather the
Sleeve at the top.

Regulate the length with the tape line.

2% 1*4

COLLAR

2S/Jr — ■

l8/8

7

8
8\

166

GENTLEMEN'S NIGHT SHIRT— Continued.

2%

LADIES' COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT.

16T

Use scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Sleeve.
Is drafted out upon the general plan of work.
Follow the arrows closely.
No allowance is made for the tucks.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure.

22^

28x/a

168

BOYS' SUIT.

Use scale corresponding with the chest measure.

Is in nine pieces: Front, Back, Collar, Belt and
two Sleeve portions, and the two portions for the
Knee Pants, and Waist Band.

Is drafted on the general plan of work.

Each plait is marked on the draft.

Follow the arrows closely.

THE PANTS

Are drafted by the scale corresponding with the
hip measure.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape
measure.

llVa 9 s'

6 V S^8 2/4

>v^--6-i *st ki sfc -

8/g

1/3

iv8

a1'.

»Vi8 7% 5^,4 !>8

«84 46/8S%2V8

BOYS' SUIT— Continued.

169

LL

V*S

170

MEN'S OVERALLS, WITH APRON.

2S4 A

*

5

!/}

28i

29*/4

Use scale corresponding with waist measure.

Is in two pieces: One-half of Overalls and Strap.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape line.

— - '47 V4

BOYS' OVERCOAT.

171

Use scale corresponding with bust measure.
Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Collar, two
Pocket Laps and two Sleeve portions.

Is drafted upon the general plan of the work.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

32 %

172

BOYS' OVERCOAT— Continued.

4%^

2*4 1V4

es
■t->

M

©

i1*

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.

173

Use scale corresponding with the
chest measure. Take the measure
over the coat moderately tight. Take
sleeve measure from center of back to
knuckle joint. Deduct the seams.

This consists of five pieces: Front,
Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

The seams are all ^-inch seams.

Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

174

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT— Continued.

CO CO

»

«0<Z>00-<1 OS
*> cb « 18s

CO

I* t«

NT"

GENTLEMEN'S OVERALLS.

175

Take the measure directly over the hip to ascertain
the number of scale to use. .It consists of five pieces:
Front, Back, Fly, Strap and Band. Regulate the length
by the tape measure.

£

WAISTBAND N0.9B Tj

^

l'/4

'*\

Z. L

— H-
— r-

'8

4%\

2

\

>H

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9

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FRONT

e
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12

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6

20 V4

39^

176

BOYS' SHIRT WAIST AND KNEE PANTS.

11%

3V4

8Vsi

^^!::__X2!4

y FEOKT

l8/4

3

3V4

6vJ. ]____

5%

/ ;

//

7 .

hi
hi

h

1

No. C 11

/ /
/ /
1 l '

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u%

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No.C 11

4V4

6V2 5

BOYS' SHIRT WAIST.

Use the scale corresponding with the chest
measure to draft the entire waist, which consists
of five pieces: Front, Back, Waist Band, Cuff
and Sleeve.

Gather the waist at the bottom and sew to
the band; gather the sleeves at the bottom and
sew to the cuff; gather at the top between
notches and sew in arms eye.

The pants are drafted by the scale corre-
sponding with the hip measure; is in three pieces,
Front, Back and Waistband.

Regulate the length to suit.

to ts

h*

ce te

a

^

X

-1 'i Of CO
a^ 0^ ^ £.

-T H E K-

Voick of Fashion

A Magazine published for the especial benefit of those who use

THE DIAMOND G GARMENT GUTTER,

And others interested in keeping well up in the latest styles.
It embraces all the latest styles, with drafts showing how to cut
and instructions in making up the same.

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1 .50 PER YEAR. SINGLE COPY, 40 CENTS.
PAID IN ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED BY

GOLDSBERRY Sc DORAN,

385 ogden avenue,
Chicago, III.

-THE

Voicb of Fashion

A Magazine published for the especial benefit of those who use

THE DIAMOND G GARMENT GUTTER,

And others interested in keeping well up in the latest styles.
It embraces all the latest styles, with drafts showing how to cut
and instructions in making up the same.

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1.50 PER YEAR. SINGLE COPY, 40 CENTS.
PAID IN ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED BY

GOLDSBERRY Sc DORAN,

385 ogden avenue,
Chicago, III.

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